The BUG OUT BAG

     First and foremost, the bug out bag must be durable. When you decide on a bag, it is a great idea to look for one with a large main compartment ready to handle a full load of equipment. It should be expandable to accommodate all your hydration, communication and organizational needs. A padded Lumbar area with mesh lined back is optional, but recommended for breathability. Multiple compression loops, tie downs and attachment points for equipment and accessories is a must, and should not be overlooked...

This British DPM PLCE full size is an excellent choice when extended travel is an option. The side pockets are removable, making this a fully modular unit capable of being utilized as both a daypack as well as a rucksack. This pack suits most average body types well, and remains at the top of my list for internal frames.

The pack should never weigh more than 1/3 your own body weight. For example, if you weigh 150 lbs., then do not carry a pack heavier than 50 lbs. The lighter the pack is the better. Always try to find time to wear your B.O.B., or carry it however you plan on doing so. This is so you may become accustomed to the feel of it, and you will not be overburdened by the B.O.B. when the time comes to actually use it.

There are multitudes of packs to choose from. This black, long range bug out bag is a typical version which can meet most essential requirements, while offering a slightly more civilian aspect. This can be important for those who wish to "bug-out" from an urbanized setting.

 Basic Essential Items to Include in the BOB:

• Fire starting tool (matches, lighter, firesteel, blastmatch, etc.)
• Water container/reservoir such as a camelback
• Water filtration - Katadyn Pro filter
• Water purification - tablets
• Sleep system: sleeping bag, tarp, hammock, tent stakes, 550 cord
• Food provisions: Mountainhouse freeze dried food, Cliff bars, Granola, Rice, Salt
• Clothing: Socks (4 pr.+), T-shirts, pants, gloves. Cold climates require special attention.
• Eating utensils, cookware, thermos
• Solar/crank radio
• Fishing kit (small or large depending on your preferences)
• Snare kit
• Flashlight (crank preferable)
• First aid/bandage kit with sutures and compress
• Health kit: Toothbrush, tooth powder, wash cloth, 1-2 bar(s) soap, anti-bacterial ointment
• Shave kit: Razor (straight or double edged safety), blades, small mirror, lather, brush

• Redundancy in fire starting: extra firesteel, matches, fire piston, tinder, etc.
• Moleskin (important for those prone to blisters)
• Extra multitool (first is to be worn on your belt-line)
• Extra hunting/skinning knife (original to be worn)
• Weapon cleaning kit (advanced)
• Extra bandages, saline lock kit, ringer's
• Pain reliever (Excedrin, Motrin, Advil, Tylenol, etc.) packed tightly to eliminate sound.
  
• Cook kit (alcohol stove, Bushbuddy, Kelly Kettle, etc.), and necessary fuel if required
• Wool scarf, wool leggings, wool socks, wool cap
  
• Knife sharpening stone (whetstone, diamond, etc.)
• Camp axe, tomahawk, forest axe
• Survival chain saw (hand, not the powered kind), folding saw
  
• Snow: goggles, heavy gloves, snow shoes, thermal underwear
• Compass, maps, marker, pens, writing pad
• Drinking cup (tin, steel, titanium, etc.)
• Folding tape measure (fabric measuring tape)
• Ammunition, firearms *personal preferences*

Try to remember that compartmentalization is critical -keep your separate kits apart from one another. Small bags work well, even a collection of ziplock baggies would work in a pinch. Label the bags, or use color coding; this will enable you to find what you need in the night more easily. Whatever you do, do not throw all your items inside the pockets of your BOB and expect to find what you need in a hurry.

Packing your BOB

Typically, you want to pack your havier items toward the bottom (some have objection to this) so that you are not "top heavy" with your pack. Generally, if you have all of your heavy items at the bottom, the pack will pull steadily on your shoulders, causing fatigue. If the items are all on the top, then you become unbalanced, and risk falling and causing injury when bending over -especially while climbing a hill for instance. The goal is to pack the heaviest items at the bottom, but distributing the rest of the weight evenly in the bag. This will have to be a trial and error attempt. Waterproofing sensitive items: pack your electronics and clothing inside waterproof baggies or sealed containers. Do not count on your bag remaining waterproof -prepare for the worst. Keep your most frequently used items toward the top of the bag if possible.

Extended Information

You should wear your bag frequently, routinely hiking with the bag will permit you to become accustomed to the load. In an urban setting, a person could go on walks with a more urban-friendly bag stuffed with any items comparable in weight to the BOB. Store your bag wisely -secure it and keep rodents from infesting the bag. Use moth balls or insect repellant, or even store it inside a cedar box or closet lined with cedar. 

External Frame vs. Internal Frame

There is a bit of speculation circulating when it comes to choosing frame types. I will keep this simple. There are only a couple important things to consider when  looking at frame types. The first, is that either frame type will serve you well if it is used in the correct manner. An external frame is generally designed for heavy loads over flat surfaces -not exactly a woodsman's best friend...however, with the advent of new materials and specially contoured/molded synthetic frames, the external is once again making a come back. The older external frames were essentially meant to keep the pack rigid enough so it does not sag and sway. The modern external frames fit the hiker proportionally, they are not bulky or heavy, and they provide a very stable platform even in the bush. Second, you have to ask yourself what your own body type will allow -some larger people have a difficult time utilizing external frames, and some of the averaged sized people prefer external frames. An internal frame utilizes the pack itself as a base for support, generally keeping the weight inside distributed across the entire panel is a good idea. Because these types of packs are often slimmer and offer less in overallstorage capacity, some choose to stray from internal frames. There are some really great internal packs out there which do offer large capacity and are not too bad with support, but there is a lot of garbage, too. Some advertise internal frames, but have a very slim panel inside which does next to nothing for support. Try to get an internal made from heavier composit materials (this doesn't necessarily equate to being heavy), and get "eyes-on" before purchasing. The last thing you want is a really large pack that does not conform to your body and cannot remain rigid with an adequate load.Finally, I would like to add that you should always be suspicious of "arm-chair" testimonials either in support of, or in condemnation of a certain pack. Often times, these inexperienced people do not understand the basic principles behind packs nor the limitations of a pack given a body type of a person on the fringe of its limitations. Bottom line: there is no 1 perfect pack for all body types.